June 12 - The Sounds of Silence

Please forgive us if we have led you to believe that all days on a cycle tour are sunshine and lollipops. Truth be told most days are cyclical in nature, a myriad of ups and downs directly related to weather, terrain, gear and food. However, every once in a while you encounter a day that is brutal, torturous even. Today was one of those days.

We started on a high, having experienced the best of Vienna and Bratislava. After a leisurely morning, we were excited to hit the trail once again, thrilled to be riding in another new country, Slovakia. Successfully connecting to Eurovelo 6, everything looked on track until we made that fateful turn east. It was then the headwinds hit us with a vengeance. Under the searing thirty degree sun, we found ourselves pushing forward on a flat, unforgiving dyke trail directly into the wind. Soul sucking wind. The kind of wind that forces you to peddle even when attempting to cruise downhill!

After 30 some years of marriage, we have learned that sometimes it is better to simply suffer in silence. After all, whining and complaining about the heat and the wind does little to change the situation and it has been said that silence is golden. For hours we rode on in complete silence, each of us fighting our own mental battle against the elements. Progress was painfully slow, yet we both kept peddling. What else could we do? By 4 pm we had only travelled 40 hard earned kilometres. Budapest felt unachievable. At that exact moment, Lady Luck smiled down upon us and served up a charming, little pizza place in a town called Sap. It was an extremely easy decision to take a break, refuel and hope for the winds to die down. Reenergized after a pizza feast we returned to the trail confident if we travelled until dark we could makeup a few kilometres. Unfortunately, in a cruel twist of fate, the cycle path changed to a deep gravel pathway. Our pace once again slowed considerably, and to make matters worse, it was now dusk and the mosquitos were swarming. Frustrated, tired and cranky we literally stumbled upon a bar with what we thought was a camping sign. (Our Slovak is worse than our German if you can believe that!) Feeling completely done, we beelined to the bar and sought out the owner. We suspect he sensed our frustration, as he led us to the back of his property, showed us a grassy area and invited us to pitch our tent. Unbelievably, he refused to accept payment for the makeshift campsite. Once again, when we have felt at our lowest, the simplest gesture of kindness has touched us deeply. It was the truest form of 5 star accommodation.

Route Update

Thanks to the kindness and generosity of a complete stranger, our tent is pitched behind the bar in the town of Klizska Nema . Tomorrow, we will continue the quest for Budapest....unless the mosquitos eat us alive tonight!

Giggle

Unbeknownst to us there is a nude beach on the outskirts of Vienna  that stretches for miles and our route took us directly through it. Naturally, being Canadian and quite reserved, we really didn’t know what to do or where to look so we simply kept peddling striving to face forward at all times. Nothing to see here! Suddenly, a quite hefty naked man, frantically waving both his arms (and other stuff) jumped on the trail in front of me. Not quite sure if I was being warned or accosted I kept on peddling all the while yelling at Rob suggesting he should talk to the guy. Turns out, the overly friendly, naked man was simply trying to tell us that we were going in the wrong direction and the path was a dead end. Appreciative, we turned around, but I must say I have not been able to order Bratwurst again.

June 11 - Century Ride

Never underestimate the power of a good nap. I don’t mean the executive level ten minute rejuvenation sleep. Rather, I mean the “fat, lazy house cat curl up in the sun front window” kind of nap. What a sight we were! 

Feeling overwhelmed by the crowded campsite in Krem, we were up and early in the morning. By lunch we had already cycled over 70 kilometres and were still feeling strong. As the afternoon sun blazed and the temperatures continued to rise, we began to feel quite sleepy. It was a strange sensation, we weren’t physically tired from riding - just sleepy. I thought I might actually nod off on the saddle. Feeing fatigued, we did what any self-respecting touring cyclist would do. With a renewed sense of purpose, we rode on to the next town, hunted down the nearest park bench, hopped off our bikes and napped. It was delicious!!!! Frankly, I am not sure how long we slept, but we awoke super charged. Long story short, we cycled a CENTURY that day. Thanks to the power of a good nap, we travelled over 100 miles in a single day. Perhaps napping should be part of our daily schedule? 

Route Update

Vienna is grand. That’s grand with a capital G! Having been riding now for 19 days and travelling over 2400 kilometres we decided to take a rest day and soak up the sights and sounds of Vienna. What an incredible city. Austria’s capital is home to an array of masterfully crafted historic buildings, the legacy of the powerful Habsburg monarchy. Fascinated, we spent the majority of our time exploring the inner city captivated by the museums, palaces, imperial apartments and famed riding school. Extremely popular with tourists, the city was buzzing. There is an energy to Vienna that simply can not be described.

Giggle

Being true Canadians, we never leave home without our toques and long johns. Packing the ten essentials for outdoor adventure has been ingrained in us. You just don’t know how cold it might get when the sun goes down over the mountain, or when the rain hits. Needless to say, we have been experiencing temperatures in the high twenties to low thirties for most of our holiday - not exactly toque weather. Yesterday, as we strolled around Vienna, I cracked and found myself in one of the tourist gift shops searching for a sun hat. If I say so myself I think I selected the perfect ensemble for a tour of the rose gardens - Vienna fashionista that I am.

June 7 - Auf Wiedersehen

Over 2,000 kilometres cycling along Eurovelo routes, and today we arrived in Austria. Thrilling to say the least. Before we got caught up in the excitement of visiting a new country, we took a few moments roadside to sit in the shade and reflect upon our time in Germany.  We have travelled more than a few miles along bustling city streets and quiet country roads, and watched the Danube River grow in size and strength. We have travelled back in time to visit Gothic Churches, Roman Ruins and a monastery or two. Captivated by the history and culture we have enjoyed each and every moment. (Well - almost! There were a few steep climbs that caused us grief!)

We have tasted schnitzel, sauerkraut and strudel, sampled enough gelato for a lifetime and sipped more than our fair share of Bavarian brew.

We have been bitten by ticks and mosquitos, swarmed by ants, and inspected by swans. Mother Nature has served up blazing heat, tree downing winds and earth shaking thunderstorms, yet what has touched us most are the German people. Hard working, kind, generous and friendly they have left a lasting impression on us. Allow me to introduce you to a few of our favourites:

(We have changed names to protect the innocent)

Farmer Frank

During a very steep climb on loose, deep gravel Rob and I found ourselves off the bikes and struggling to push them up the hill. Off in the distance, we noticed a farmer observing us with interest. When he couldn’t seem to stand our obvious suffering a moment longer, he drove his tractor to meet us. Excitedly he yelled at us in German. Of course, we didn’t understand a single word he said, which made him yell at us louder and wave his arms with great ghussto.  Before we could comprehend what was happening, he lowered the tractor bucket, jumped off and loaded the two of us and our bikes in. There we were riding shotgun to the top of the hill in a tractor bucket.

Henry the Mayor of Ulm

As per usual we were stopped at a corner, deciding which direction to go, and likely looking very confused, when a kindly retired gentleman approached. In perfect English he asked if we were lost. Without much ado, he said his name was Henry and if we had an hour to spare he would love to give us a tour of Ulm. What a magical tour it was! Henry enthusiastically led us through the city streets sharing his insights along the way. Without a doubt the highlight was a visit to the Ulm Church. With its 161 meter high steeple, it is the biggest evangelic church in Germany and the tallest church in the world. To make it even more special it is the place that Henry married his bride.

Electric bike guy

During frequent stops at markets, one of us will stand on bike guard duty while the other shops. Likely, this isn’t necessary, but it is unsettling to leave your bikes and all your gear unattended. During one of my waits outside, I engaged in conversation with a gentleman who was loading up his electric bike. We gestured at each other, and with great pride he allowed me to taste drive his ride! I asked if he wanted to tried. It was not necessary to understand German to know that he did not think much of that idea.

Dessert Dan

Food is fuel! Often by the time we arrive at our campsites we are famished. Well truthfully, we are ALWAYS hungry.  You can imagine our delight when a fellow from the trailer park arrived at our tent laden with treats to share!

Route Update

Tonight we are camped on the grounds of a Gausthaus, just outside the city of Linz. Our sights are now set on Vienna, and YES we have been singing the Sound of Music Soundtrack as we cycle along!

Giggle

As we were standing on a corner in Passau, the City of Three Rivers, pondering our next turn, we were once again graced by the kindness of a stranger. Passau Pete, as we called him, asked where we were going and if he could be of help. Not wanting to look a gift horse in the mouth we graciously accepted his offer. Like a flash of lightening he was on his bike beckoning us to follow. Digging deep within, I tried to match the speed of Rob and our benefactor. Like a flash we were out of the city on a crest of a hill. Passau Pete, pointed us in the direction of Budapest, wished us well, and was gone before we could properly thank him. As luck would have it, he had stopped us directly in front of a fresh strawberry stand. What were we to do? We purchased a small box of strawberries from the kindly vendor who seemed quite concerned that her berries would go bad on the back of our bikes. Never fear we tried to convey, the strawberries will be long gone before the heat of the day has a chance to spoil them, and with that we literally inhaled the entire pint. Our strawberry vendor was so impressed with our display of passionate strawberry consumption that she proudly presented us with two of the largest strawberries we have ever seen.

June 5 - Dead Ends

Meticulous route planning is not our forte. We prefer a more casual approach, trusting local knowledge and adjusting our overall plan as we ride. Usually we are successful. Today, however, we encountered our first dead end.

Excited to learn that the Monastery of Weltenburg, the oldest Benedictine Abbey of Bavaria, founded in 620 AD was just “around the corner” we picked up our pace and followed the clearly marked bike trail to the historic site. There in the distance loomed the famous church. Spectacular! What we failed to notice was the deadend! Looking at each other in disbelief we began to face the grim reality that after exploring the church, we may have to retrace our steps. Fortunately, Lady Luck was on our side. In the distance, we noticed quite a large lineup forming. Our curiosity piqued, we investigated. There it was - a ferry dock. The next leg of our Eurovelo 6 route was literally ON one Europe’s greatest rivers. Without a moments hesitation we joined the line and before we could blink we were cruising the Danube all the way to Kelheim. 

Route Update

Once again we find ourselves camped on the banks of the Danube. The river has grown considerably and we seen our first cruise ships and barges. Currently, we are on the outskirts of Regensburg, a bustling river city. Accustomed to Canadian back-country camping we are slowing adjusting to the German way. Here, the campsites are close to cities and the amenities rival those of fine hotels. Sparkling clean washrooms, complete with hot showers and laundry facilities, camp stores, and Biergarten’s bustling with beer drinking , schnitzel eating Bavarians. We are striving to acclimate!

Giggle

Under the scorching hot afternoon sun, we struggled to maintain a decent pace. Feeling tired, cranky, and literally fried, we longed for a cold, tall glass of lemonade. We lamented the fact that neighbourhood lemonade stands appear to be a thing of the past. Where are the enterprising young entrepreneurs when you need them most? And, just like that, the cycle Gods delivered. A few kilometres outside of Marxheim we rounded a bend to be greeted on the trail by a group of teenagers. Recent high school grads, they had set up camp on the corner and were playing a drinking game. When a passing car honked, they would guzzle. We stopped and visited for a while, caught up in the excitement of Grad. They were curious about us and wanted to learn more. Mischievously, I convinced them that we must be at least half way to Budapest by now. I asked if they knew the Bon Jovi song, Living on a Prayer. Without hesitation, they cranked the music and we began to sing, “you’re half way there, living on a prayer.” Joyfully, they passed us the bottle of Schnapps and we took a shot. When in Rome!

June 2 - A Good Day for Up

We knew we were in trouble from the moment we saw the sign. Ski bus parking area ahead, or whatever the German translation of that is. Now, we are no experts, but we have spent enough time on a ski hill to know that you require a certain steepness of grade to operate a proper ski resort. With nowhere to go but up, we began the steep climb out of Whalweis. Gruelling kilometres of UP, UP, UP under the blazing sun. We are confident temperatures today were well into the 30’s. (For the record, I would like Mother Nature to know that we aren’t complaining...sun over rain any day..thank you very much!) 

Truth be told Rob is an excellent hill climber. With one look at the challenge ahead he digs deep, adjusts gears and attacks. Conversely, I like to think of myself as a downhill specialist. Not a technical downhiller like you would see in a cycling race, but more of a toddler’s approach. With glee, I relish the wind in my hair and the effortless descent. At times, I take my feet of the peddles and shout with joy. In order to match our opposing styles, at all impending steeps, I simply say to Rob, “see ya at the top!”, and there he patiently waits for me to complete my ascent. 

To the victors come the spoils. To say we were well rewarded for toughing out the climb is an understatement. Just when our legs and lungs felt like we couldn’t go any further, we began a spectacular descent to Tittengen. The kilometres flew by and all was right with the world again. To our great delight we arrived safe, sound and relatively intact at the Danube River. Dipping in the Danube never felt so good!

After the excitement of reaching the Danube, we pushed on, once again facing with a series of rolling hills along the river valley. By far, this is one of the prettiest sections we have cycled to date. The winding river cuts its’ way through steep rock walls. History runs deep here dating back to 1077. Signs of medieval fortresses, royal residences, turrets, towers and religious symbols are evident along the banks of the Danube. We are told one of the most powerful families in European history, the Princes of Hohenzollern-Sigmaringen, called this area home, and for just one night, so will we.

Route update

Arguably, the most challenging section of Eurovelo 6 to date has left us in a state of happy exhaustion. We are camped on the banks of the Danube River in the lovely town of Sigmaringen, well protected by Sigmaringen Castle towering above us. The local rowing club has welcomed us to their tenting area, so tonight we sleep amongst another group of passionate paddlers. Loud and happy sounds are resonating from the Beer Garden above. I suspect we may pay it a visit.

Giggle 

Soaring daytime temperatures. Menopausal. Hot Flashes. Down Sleeping Bag. Two man (Canadian 3 season tent). Snoring husband. Extremely loud snoring husband. Thoughts of killing him. I refrained. Enough said.

June 1 - The Sun Rises in the East

Kudos to Rob. He is the navigation master extraordinaire. Meticulously calculating distances, tracking our progress, checking and rechecking the maps, well, frankly without him I would still be at the airport. They say opposites attract, and when it comes to navigation I must agree. Frankly, after the sun rises in the east and “I think the river is flowing that way”, I have to excuse myself from all conversations related to distance and direction. However, in my defence I have become quite adept at predicting the challenges lying ahead. If I say so myself, I am a master at reading the body language of approaching cyclists and correlating it to the degree of difficulty we are about to face. For example, should a big, strong French road warrior, with bulging quadricep muscles and a flushed face appear from the crest of the hill, it translates to a fantastic stretch of downhill ahead. Conversely, should an aged gentleman on a cruiser bike approach without so much of a bead of sweat on his face it means we are in for a big, big climb. Needless to say, my intuitive skills at reading approaching riders combined with Rob’s native ability to know exactly where we are equate to cycle touring gold. That’s my story, and I am sticking to it.

Route update

Today we paid the price for those long, flat canal stretches in France. We followed the Rhine River and began the climb to Lake Konstanz, and a climb it was, but definitely worth the effort. We arrived at the spectacular Rhine Falls, the largest waterfall in Switzerland. After cycling for miles along quiet country roads the spectacle of the falls and the tourist infrastructure associated with the site was almost overwhelming. Bus load upon bus load of people were flocking to the area, clamouring to get closer to the thundering water. Without hesitation we joined the crowd, and pushed our way to the front, bikes and all....and yes we grabbed a selfie!

Enjoying a lazy afternoon, we stopped to bask in the sun on the shores of Lake Konstanz, and enjoyed some good old fashioned people watching. Being a holiday weekend, the lake was a beehive of activity and we soaked it all in. 

Tomorrow, with a little luck and a lot of muscle we hope to say goodbye to the Rhine and dip our tires in the Danube.

Giggle 

After a long day of climbing hills, we arrived happy but exhausted at Campinggarten Wahlwies, a cute little campsite just north of Lake Konstanz in Germany. To our great dismay the entry sign said campsite full. Feeling disheartened we decided to visit reception and do our best “totally exhausted we have nowhere else to go look”. (Not a stretch) Skeptical the owner carefully inspected us and appeared to be turning us away, when Rob played the Herr Weiss card hoping his German heritage would bring us luck. It worked! “Welcome Herr Weiss, we are full but we may have something for you, follow me. The site is bumpy, with long grass, a hill and “mices”, but it might be ok?” Perfect we said!

May 30 - I can see Germany from my tent

It is with a twinge of regret and excitement that we prepare to say au revoir to France. What an incredible few days it has been. We are in complete awe at the cycling infrastucture - endless miles of dedicated cycling paths and clearly marked route signage. Evidently, the bike and barge business has been good for the two wheeling crowd. At almost every turn we have witnessed upgrades geared specifically for cyclists, not to mention a huge investment in charging stations for ebikes.

To describe a highlight from our time in France would be extremely difficult. Each section of the route has offered something different: easy, flat cycling adjacent to canals, narrow twisty country roads, quaint villages, calming natural areas and busy cities. Historic palaces and churches, villas and chateaus, and of course incredible food and wine have been the order of the day.

Fascinated, we have observed the fisherman along the banks of the canals. Countless fisherman, each with several rods, testing their skills against Mother Nature. I can not tell you how many fishermen we have passed, but I can tell you how many fish we have seen pulled from the river. ZERO! Apparently, you need much patience to fish in France!

Without fail, during our time here, as we drew near larger urban areas the cycling paths became congested, but not in an annoying rush hour way. Instead they were a wonderful mix of “athletes in action.” People of all shapes and sizes sharing the road. Imagine the Stanley Park Seawall on steroids. Cyclists, walkers, joggers, runners, scooters, rollerblades, tricycles, ebikes, wheelchairs, and the odd motorized service vehicle just to make it exciting! Naturally, because we are in France, there were wine stops adjacent to the cycling path. Why not pull off, take a break and sip a glass of your favourite grape juice?

Most impressive, and absolutely intimidating, were the road racers who used the trails for training. Large masses of muscle, approaching at great speed, zipping by before you even knew they were there. Quite a contrast to our slow chugging touring bikes. As we watched these racers in awe we came to the decision that France is the land of quads, calves and croissants.  We will miss it!

Giggle

Two. The winning number is two. Those of you acquainted with Rob will know that he is either misplacing, searching for, loosing or breaking his glasses. When home, he frequently purchases eyeware in bulk at the local Costco. Well, rest assured on day two of our trip he completely destroyed his glasses and on day three he broke his sunglasses. I will not tell you what we had to pay to purchase a replacement set of spectacles. Leopards and their spots!

Route update

Tonight we pitching our tent in a paddlers campground on the banks of the Rhine River. Three of the Eurovelo cycling routes converge at this point and in addition to the white water paddlers , the campsite is full of cyclists from around the world, sharing tales from the road and route tips. 

Our first 1000 km are under the belt and we are feeling in bike shape. We have navigated our way across France and tomorrow we will touch Switzerland and Germany. Peddle on!