Determined to beat both the heat and the winds, we decided to get an early start. By 5 am we were up, packed and spinning our wheels. Ridiculous, I know, but well worth the effort. Faced with another long, long stretch of gravel travel we pushed on, trying to stay positive, sights firmly set on Budapest.
Throughout the day we leap frogged by a lovely couple from Australia. They had purchased a self guided 5 star biking package from Bratislava to Budapest. As part of their package, their luggage was transported between hotels and they were provided with a well equipped bike and up to date cue sheet for route finding. To say they were impressed by the tour company definition of 5 Star would be an understatement. Slogging on gravel track is tough, simply not quite the same as the paved and well maintained trails in France and Germany. Although, they were clearly upset and frustrated by the condition of the paths and roads, we shared a few laughs along the way, and by late in the day we were fast friends....and that’s when the magic happened. During a chat at a rest stop (the only shady spot we had been able to find all day) they told us about a ferry they were booked on for the last few kilometres in to Budapest. They invited us to join them, encouraging us to arrive in Budapest in style....on a cruise ship. Actually, not quite a cruise shop, more like a rust bucket, but nonetheless after a long day of thirty five degree temperatures, head winds and gravel it was tempting. Throwing caution to the wind, we accepted their kind offer and joined them on the MS Esztergom, a river boat built in the Soviet Union in 1969. After a frantic effort navigating gangplanks and narrow passageways with our loaded bikes, we settled in to a loud, diesel fuelled sailing on the Danube. To our great delight, we anchored in Budapest as the sun was setting. Spectacular!
There we were on the banks of the Danube, in the heart of Budapest. The city was electric! Absolutely breathtaking. Spellbound, we simply stood on the dock, holding hands taking it all in and quietly celebrating our journey. We had travelled by bicycle over 2900 kilometres, from Paris to Budapest, crossing 6 countries and now we found ourselves in downtown Budapest without a place to stay and it was getting dark. What could possibly go wrong?
We fired up trusty Google and began to search for a BnB close to us. Fortunately, luck showered upon us once again, and we discovered a reasonably priced apartment one block from the parliament buildings, with hosts who entertained our last minute reservation request.
Over one hundred years old, our apartment is beyond unique. Words will not do it justice. Open courtyard, 14 foot ceilings, antique furniture and an old school cage elevator. Our hosts are kind and gracious, showering us with treats including beer and fresh cherries. Who could ask for anything more? Thank you Budapest.
Giggle
Arriving in Budapest without Rob going to jail has been a huge relief. We have had 3 encounters with local Policia, all quite stressful when you don’t understand the language. Offences as follows:
- Taking photos of Policia in uniform in Germany. Don't do it.
- Trespassing on a construction sight...even though it was the clearly marked bike route in Slovakia. Don't do it.
- Unwittingly attempting to pass a police barricade in Hungary. Security is tight as the Prime Ministers of the Czech republic, Hungary, Poland and Slovakia are in town discussing the future of Europe.We were not invited to attend the meetings.
Yet, despite it all, we have managed to nod, smile and convey our apologies, with no criminal record to date. (Or non that we are aware of, as we were warned by one security guard in Slovakia that the Policia have our pictures)
