June 7 - Auf Wiedersehen

Over 2,000 kilometres cycling along Eurovelo routes, and today we arrived in Austria. Thrilling to say the least. Before we got caught up in the excitement of visiting a new country, we took a few moments roadside to sit in the shade and reflect upon our time in Germany.  We have travelled more than a few miles along bustling city streets and quiet country roads, and watched the Danube River grow in size and strength. We have travelled back in time to visit Gothic Churches, Roman Ruins and a monastery or two. Captivated by the history and culture we have enjoyed each and every moment. (Well - almost! There were a few steep climbs that caused us grief!)

We have tasted schnitzel, sauerkraut and strudel, sampled enough gelato for a lifetime and sipped more than our fair share of Bavarian brew.

We have been bitten by ticks and mosquitos, swarmed by ants, and inspected by swans. Mother Nature has served up blazing heat, tree downing winds and earth shaking thunderstorms, yet what has touched us most are the German people. Hard working, kind, generous and friendly they have left a lasting impression on us. Allow me to introduce you to a few of our favourites:

(We have changed names to protect the innocent)

Farmer Frank

During a very steep climb on loose, deep gravel Rob and I found ourselves off the bikes and struggling to push them up the hill. Off in the distance, we noticed a farmer observing us with interest. When he couldn’t seem to stand our obvious suffering a moment longer, he drove his tractor to meet us. Excitedly he yelled at us in German. Of course, we didn’t understand a single word he said, which made him yell at us louder and wave his arms with great ghussto.  Before we could comprehend what was happening, he lowered the tractor bucket, jumped off and loaded the two of us and our bikes in. There we were riding shotgun to the top of the hill in a tractor bucket.

Henry the Mayor of Ulm

As per usual we were stopped at a corner, deciding which direction to go, and likely looking very confused, when a kindly retired gentleman approached. In perfect English he asked if we were lost. Without much ado, he said his name was Henry and if we had an hour to spare he would love to give us a tour of Ulm. What a magical tour it was! Henry enthusiastically led us through the city streets sharing his insights along the way. Without a doubt the highlight was a visit to the Ulm Church. With its 161 meter high steeple, it is the biggest evangelic church in Germany and the tallest church in the world. To make it even more special it is the place that Henry married his bride.

Electric bike guy

During frequent stops at markets, one of us will stand on bike guard duty while the other shops. Likely, this isn’t necessary, but it is unsettling to leave your bikes and all your gear unattended. During one of my waits outside, I engaged in conversation with a gentleman who was loading up his electric bike. We gestured at each other, and with great pride he allowed me to taste drive his ride! I asked if he wanted to tried. It was not necessary to understand German to know that he did not think much of that idea.

Dessert Dan

Food is fuel! Often by the time we arrive at our campsites we are famished. Well truthfully, we are ALWAYS hungry.  You can imagine our delight when a fellow from the trailer park arrived at our tent laden with treats to share!

Route Update

Tonight we are camped on the grounds of a Gausthaus, just outside the city of Linz. Our sights are now set on Vienna, and YES we have been singing the Sound of Music Soundtrack as we cycle along!

Giggle

As we were standing on a corner in Passau, the City of Three Rivers, pondering our next turn, we were once again graced by the kindness of a stranger. Passau Pete, as we called him, asked where we were going and if he could be of help. Not wanting to look a gift horse in the mouth we graciously accepted his offer. Like a flash of lightening he was on his bike beckoning us to follow. Digging deep within, I tried to match the speed of Rob and our benefactor. Like a flash we were out of the city on a crest of a hill. Passau Pete, pointed us in the direction of Budapest, wished us well, and was gone before we could properly thank him. As luck would have it, he had stopped us directly in front of a fresh strawberry stand. What were we to do? We purchased a small box of strawberries from the kindly vendor who seemed quite concerned that her berries would go bad on the back of our bikes. Never fear we tried to convey, the strawberries will be long gone before the heat of the day has a chance to spoil them, and with that we literally inhaled the entire pint. Our strawberry vendor was so impressed with our display of passionate strawberry consumption that she proudly presented us with two of the largest strawberries we have ever seen.

June 5 - Dead Ends

Meticulous route planning is not our forte. We prefer a more casual approach, trusting local knowledge and adjusting our overall plan as we ride. Usually we are successful. Today, however, we encountered our first dead end.

Excited to learn that the Monastery of Weltenburg, the oldest Benedictine Abbey of Bavaria, founded in 620 AD was just “around the corner” we picked up our pace and followed the clearly marked bike trail to the historic site. There in the distance loomed the famous church. Spectacular! What we failed to notice was the deadend! Looking at each other in disbelief we began to face the grim reality that after exploring the church, we may have to retrace our steps. Fortunately, Lady Luck was on our side. In the distance, we noticed quite a large lineup forming. Our curiosity piqued, we investigated. There it was - a ferry dock. The next leg of our Eurovelo 6 route was literally ON one Europe’s greatest rivers. Without a moments hesitation we joined the line and before we could blink we were cruising the Danube all the way to Kelheim. 

Route Update

Once again we find ourselves camped on the banks of the Danube. The river has grown considerably and we seen our first cruise ships and barges. Currently, we are on the outskirts of Regensburg, a bustling river city. Accustomed to Canadian back-country camping we are slowing adjusting to the German way. Here, the campsites are close to cities and the amenities rival those of fine hotels. Sparkling clean washrooms, complete with hot showers and laundry facilities, camp stores, and Biergarten’s bustling with beer drinking , schnitzel eating Bavarians. We are striving to acclimate!

Giggle

Under the scorching hot afternoon sun, we struggled to maintain a decent pace. Feeling tired, cranky, and literally fried, we longed for a cold, tall glass of lemonade. We lamented the fact that neighbourhood lemonade stands appear to be a thing of the past. Where are the enterprising young entrepreneurs when you need them most? And, just like that, the cycle Gods delivered. A few kilometres outside of Marxheim we rounded a bend to be greeted on the trail by a group of teenagers. Recent high school grads, they had set up camp on the corner and were playing a drinking game. When a passing car honked, they would guzzle. We stopped and visited for a while, caught up in the excitement of Grad. They were curious about us and wanted to learn more. Mischievously, I convinced them that we must be at least half way to Budapest by now. I asked if they knew the Bon Jovi song, Living on a Prayer. Without hesitation, they cranked the music and we began to sing, “you’re half way there, living on a prayer.” Joyfully, they passed us the bottle of Schnapps and we took a shot. When in Rome!