June 5 - Dead Ends

Meticulous route planning is not our forte. We prefer a more casual approach, trusting local knowledge and adjusting our overall plan as we ride. Usually we are successful. Today, however, we encountered our first dead end.

Excited to learn that the Monastery of Weltenburg, the oldest Benedictine Abbey of Bavaria, founded in 620 AD was just “around the corner” we picked up our pace and followed the clearly marked bike trail to the historic site. There in the distance loomed the famous church. Spectacular! What we failed to notice was the deadend! Looking at each other in disbelief we began to face the grim reality that after exploring the church, we may have to retrace our steps. Fortunately, Lady Luck was on our side. In the distance, we noticed quite a large lineup forming. Our curiosity piqued, we investigated. There it was - a ferry dock. The next leg of our Eurovelo 6 route was literally ON one Europe’s greatest rivers. Without a moments hesitation we joined the line and before we could blink we were cruising the Danube all the way to Kelheim. 

Route Update

Once again we find ourselves camped on the banks of the Danube. The river has grown considerably and we seen our first cruise ships and barges. Currently, we are on the outskirts of Regensburg, a bustling river city. Accustomed to Canadian back-country camping we are slowing adjusting to the German way. Here, the campsites are close to cities and the amenities rival those of fine hotels. Sparkling clean washrooms, complete with hot showers and laundry facilities, camp stores, and Biergarten’s bustling with beer drinking , schnitzel eating Bavarians. We are striving to acclimate!

Giggle

Under the scorching hot afternoon sun, we struggled to maintain a decent pace. Feeling tired, cranky, and literally fried, we longed for a cold, tall glass of lemonade. We lamented the fact that neighbourhood lemonade stands appear to be a thing of the past. Where are the enterprising young entrepreneurs when you need them most? And, just like that, the cycle Gods delivered. A few kilometres outside of Marxheim we rounded a bend to be greeted on the trail by a group of teenagers. Recent high school grads, they had set up camp on the corner and were playing a drinking game. When a passing car honked, they would guzzle. We stopped and visited for a while, caught up in the excitement of Grad. They were curious about us and wanted to learn more. Mischievously, I convinced them that we must be at least half way to Budapest by now. I asked if they knew the Bon Jovi song, Living on a Prayer. Without hesitation, they cranked the music and we began to sing, “you’re half way there, living on a prayer.” Joyfully, they passed us the bottle of Schnapps and we took a shot. When in Rome!